For millions of Americans, brushing freshly washed hair feels like second nature, a step as routine as toweling off. But experts say that common habit could be quietly wrecking your strands at a microscopic level.
“When hair gets wet, it undergoes significant physical changes that can affect its ability to handle stress from brushing,” said Dr. Mehmet Erdogan, co-founder and hair transplant surgeon at Smile Hair Clinic in Istanbul. “The water causes the hair shaft to swell, stretches the cuticle and makes it more susceptible to breakage.”
In simple terms, wet hair might feel softer and easier to comb, but it’s actually in a weakened, vulnerable state. The internal protein structure becomes compromised, which can lead to long-term thinning and breakage.
“The opposite is true – this stretching damages the internal protein structure, leading to weaker hair over time,” Erdogan warned. “The brush pulls on swollen, weakened strands, causing them to stretch beyond their capacity. As they dry, they don’t return to their original state and remain damaged at a structural level.”
The Damage You Can’t See – Until It’s Too Late
A 2022 study from the University of Manchester backed this up, showing that moisture alters how hair responds to mechanical stress. While wet strands might appear to be more flexible, Erdogan noted that “the opposite is true, this stretching damages the internal protein structure, leading to weaker hair over time.”
Salon owners and stylists are seeing the fallout firsthand.
“Wet hair is more fragile, and rough brushing can cause breakage,” said Ashley DiMatteo, owner of Ashley Lauren Beauty Lounge in Westchester, New York. “But it’s rarely just one issue – hair loss or damage often comes from a combination of factors like stress, hormones, heat styling or chemical treatments.”
It’s Not Just the Brush, It’s Everything
Her colleague Briana Delvecchio, a colorist with 14 years of experience, agreed that brushing wet hair especially with the wrong tool or too much force sets the stage for breakage.
Hormones, poor nutrition, or even just over-washing can exacerbate the problem, turning minor breakage into serious thinning over time.
So… Never Brush Wet Hair?
Not quite. Skipping the brush altogether isn’t ideal either.
“Brushing is necessary — just do it gently and in the right way,” Delvecchio advised.
Instead of banishing your brush, rethink your technique and tools.
Delvecchio recommends using a flexible detangling brush or a wide-tooth comb, especially for damp or fragile hair. “The flexible bristles are great for detangling without too much tension,” she said. “It’s a solid option for all hair types, as long as you’re still gentle and patient.”
How to Brush Wet Hair the Right Way
According to DiMatteo, the key is to treat your hair with care and intention starting with how you detangle.
“Technique matters, too – always start from the bottom and gently work your way up,” she said.
She also swears by leave-in conditioners or hydrating sprays, which make hair softer and easier for the brush to glide through.
On top of that, DiMatteo urges clients to think beyond the bathroom mirror.
Heat Styling While Wet? That’s a Double Whammy
Brushing isn’t the only danger zone. Blasting wet hair with heat can multiply the damage, Erdogan cautioned.
His advice? Let straight hair air-dry at least partially before running a brush or hot tool through it. The American Academy of Dermatology Association supports the same approach.
Handle With Care
Whether your hair is stick-straight, coiled, or chemically processed, it deserves a little tenderness, especially when it’s wet.
“Use heat protectant, lower the heat on your tools, avoid overlapping bleach and keep up with trims,” Delvecchio recommended. “Also, brush regularly (wet or dry) to prevent tangles and breakage.”
“Hair is delicate,” she added, “but with the right habits, it can stay strong and healthy.”
